Bearded Dragon Care If given the right care and treatment. If given the right care and treatment, bearded dragons make great pets. The average lifespan of bearded dragons is between 8 and 10 years. However, the oldest recorded bearded dragon was 18 years. They are easy to handle and docile. They rarely bite.
The name bearded dragon comes from the scaly and spiked area under their neck, which can change color and expand depending on their mood. The “beard” is usually black and can grow larger when they need to defend themselves or display their affections to other beardies.
The wild bearded dragons of Australia are dust-colored and blend into the desert landscape. Wild bearded Dragons cannot be brought from Australia so bearded Dragons in America are kept in captivity. birds facts Multiple color varieties can be recognized through selective breeding. These include bright yellow and orange variants as well as smooth-scale leatherbacks.
Housing for Bearded Dragons
Pet stores and companies market items for bearded Dragons, just like other exotic species. They do not conduct any research to ensure that the product is safe. Some products can be directly harmful to bearded Dragons in some cases.
This is something to keep in mind when buying supplies for your beardie. Just because a product is advertised as being good for bearded dragons doesn’t necessarily mean that it will be. Many companies use sand to provide a
substrate for bearded dragons
This can lead to gastrointestinal problems and even death. For safety, make sure to check with your veterinarian regarding the products in your Terrarium.
When it comes to bearded dragon enclosures, bigger is always better. Ten-gallon containers are not suitable for long-term housing of juveniles, or quick transport of adults. A 75-gallon container is sufficient for an adult beardie. A larger terrarium is recommended.
An enclosure should be three times the length of the beardie’s nose-to-tail. Bearded dragons can grow up to 2 feet in length, and males tend to grow longer than their female counterparts.
For proper ventilation
the top of your terrarium should have a screen top. Glass or mesh can be used as sides, though it is more difficult to maintain the proper temperature. Acceptable substrates include tile, newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or reptile carpet. Avoid using fine gravel, wood chips or crushed walnut shells as these could be eaten by bearded dragons.
You can use some “bio-active” substrates, but your dragon must have the right husbandry (e.g. lighting, heat, diet and humidity) to avoid serious health problems. Beardie parents are not able to properly care for a bio-active substrate. It is easier and more beneficial for bearded dragons to use a tile-like surface to maintain the bottom of their terrarium. More
Temperature
Bearded dragons are reptiles and rely on the environment to regulate their internal temperature. Bearded dragons must be kept in captivity with a temperature gradient that provides a warm, basking and cool sides. To ensure proper temperatures, at least two thermometers must be installed in the terrarium.
The thermometer should be one inch above the bottom at the cool end. The temperature sensor at the warmer end should be located at the level the basking spot. The daytime temperature should be between 80-88 degrees Fahrenheit and the basking site should be between 95-105 degrees. The temperatures can fall to as low as 70° at night.
Ultraviolet Lighting
For bearded dragons to be healthy, ultraviolet light (UVB) is vital. They will not be able to properly process vitamin D and calcium, which can lead to serious conditions such as metabolic bone disease. Although the sun is the best source of UVB, special bulbs such as Reptisun can be used.
Adults and juvenile bears may require a stronger source for UVB than they do adults. To prevent burns, fluorescent bulbs should be no more than 12 inches away from the basking area. To provide heat gradients, another bulb must be used when using a UV lamp.
An overhead, self-ballasted
mercury va lamp ( Powersun, Zoo Med), which can provide heat, UVB and UVA, is another option. Avoid direct contact with heating elements and light sources, or hot rocks. They can cause severe thermal burns.
Bearded dragons need to be exposed for 12-hour photoperiods. This can easily be accomplished using timers. The lights should be switched on and off for 12 hours. Bearded dragons can be active throughout the day so food, handling and enrichment should all be done.
All UVB/UVA bulbs must be replaced at least every six months, even if they seem to still work. The UVB will fade over time, even though the bulb emits visible light. You could also buy a UV meter for monitoring UVB output.
Humidity
The humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. The humidity in the terrarium should range from 40-60%. Beardies can live in the desert naturally, but it is important to keep water fresh in the enclosure in order to prevent
dehydration. A shallow water bowl is best for drinking. Beardies can drink water directly from the bowl, but many bearded dragons don’t drink from them.They might also soak in the water and defecate there, which can lead to an unhealthy environment. It is important to clean the bowl often.
Dehydration is a condition in which bearded dragons don’t get enough water. There are several ways to keep bearded Dragons from becoming dehydrated.
Enrichment
On both sides of your terrarium, burrows or hiding places should be readily available. Your beardie will be able to choose whether he likes direct sunlight or warmth. Bearded dragons are active most of the day and are skilled climbers. The housing environment must provide shelter/hiding space, a basking area and a place to climb.
Bearded dragons tend to be solitary. Fighting can result in serious injuries so males should be kept apart from other males. If there is an intention to breed, males should not be housed together with females.
For stimulation and enrichment
, small treat balls with holes may be given to the dragon. Greens and insects can also be placed in there for him to play with and eat. Regular rotation is necessary for their enclosures climbs, and hides.
Bearded dragons shouldn’t be allowed to roam unsupervised in the home. This is to prevent them from suffering trauma, chilling, escape, and ingestion of foreign substances (such as potentially toxic live plant material) that could lead to salmonella transmission.
Bearded Dragon Foods
Bearded dragons eat both vegetables and meat. Juveniles are more industrious than their parents, with insects accounting for a greater percentage of their diet. As they age, their consumption of greens and the size of their prey increases. In general, insects should be kept alive (not frozen) and not larger than the distance between their eyes.
The following are the
fundamentals of your bearded Dragon’s diet: Always have water in a shallow container. Water should be refreshed every day. Types Of Blue Birds
Adults should consume 25% to 25% of their diet from insects. You should offer a variety of insects to your adult, including hornworms and phoenix-worms, hornworms and silkworms. Rotating insects is a good idea to ensure that you are providing different nutrients every day. It is not recommended to freeze-dry insects as they lack sufficient nutrients.
The gut-loading method can help improve the overall health of your beardie. Feeder insects purchased from commercial sources are often deficient in nutritional value.
Feeder bugs should
be fed nutritious, over-the-counter food at least 24 hours before they are allowed to feed the beardies. This is called gut-loading, and it will provide vital vitamins and nutrients to your bearded dragon.
Adults should eat 50-55% vegetables. It may take some time for bearded dragons to become comfortable with vegetables, but it is important to offer multiple options.
You can offer 2-3 different types of dark leafy greens every day, including romaine and dandelion greens. You can also include carrots, squashes, zucchini, peas, and broccoli in your diet. Bearded Dragon Care If given the right care and treatment